Trip undertaken Aug 3 –Aug 18, 2006
Kawasaki Eliminator / Model: July 2002
Photos at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/drprithviraval/sets/
“Aap Akela hai ?” was the most enquiring phrase I was asked, with astonishment, by many on this trip of mine into the Himalayan wilderness. Its not very common to see a single motorcyclist on this route. Usually people ride with a pillion or in groups of 2/3 bikes.
I don’t know what it is but just about 10 months ago, I felt like taking a challenging motorcycle ride and could not think of anything better than the one to Ladakh. (Kashmir).
I had a need to visit the Lady Willingdon Hospital at Manali (HP). At my instance, our Rotary club Bangalore along with that for RC Singapore and The Rotary Foundation had together assisted the hospital in setting up a much needed dental clinic at a cost of US $ 10,000/- in 1996. The clinic is running well and treats about 300-400 patients a month. It needs some further assistance now with more equipment Putting the need and my adventure holiday together I decided to take up the challenge.
In the beginning many friends from Rotary as well as non-Rotary evinced interested in joining, but as the deadline to confirm decisions came, there were valid reasons to postpone their trip. I received friendly farewells from the IFMR Bangalore group and my own Rotary club and motorcycling friends. Some of them had ‘you must be crazy’ looks on them. I was a bit jittery, “Would I be able to make it ?” Knowing the weather conditions, the location, road condition and the altitude !
But for me it was still : LEH Guiye Dil – Mo’bike Japan Ke…….
I booked my bike by Leo Packers up to Delhi about 12 days in advance to my departure. My bike transportation was more expensive than my air fare ! I had the bike service about 3 weeks before my departure, and sparingly used it for about 200km. It was doing fine. No more ‘touch ups’, I just shipped it as it was. Thanks to Venkat Shyam and his staff.
I was at Delhi on Aug 03, arrived by Jet Airways at 11.30 am and went to the packers, who were close to the airport. My bike started at the very first touch of the self starter button and the healthy purr of the engine was sweet music. I put on the back pack on the motorcycle and left in the sweltering heat and crowded traffic of Delhi.
My route was: (overnight halts italics)
NEW DELHI > Chandigarh > Panchakula > Kalka > Swarghat > Bilaspur > Mandi > Bhuntar > Kullu > Manali > Rohtang Pass > Tandi > Keylong > Jispa > Pateso > Barlachala > Saarchu > Pang > Tanglang La > Upshi > Hemis > LEH = 1094 Km
LEH > Lamayuru > Hensikot > Khalatse > Mulbek > Kargil > Drass > Sonamarg * > Zojilla pass > Kangan > Srinagar > Khazigund > Jawahar Tunnel > Jammu Bypass > Pathankot > Amritsar > Wagha border > Jalandhar > Ludhiana > Ambala > Paipat > NEW DELHI = 1340 Km
Total 2434 Kms. (* Trucked the bike for 20 km, not included in total)
Himalayan Mountain Passes in feet.
1. Rohtang: 16,500
2. Gondla 11,000
3. Baralachala 16,200
4. Nakeela 15,700
5. Lachangla 16,800
6. Tanglangla 17,400
7. Futola 12,600
8. Namki la 12,200
9. Zo jil la 13,500
Indian States covered:
1. Union territory
2. Haryana
3. Himachal Pradesh
4. Punjab
5. Jammu and Kashmir
Total Mileage covered: 2434 Kms
Total petrol used: 76.50 liters
Total cost of Petrol 3800.00 Rs.
Average Kilometers per liter 32.00
Hours on the Seat 55 hours
Liability: One puncture / front tyre at Sarchu 14,000’
Slipped & Fell in the sludge
Dame Luck: Puncture opposite puncture repair shop.
Scary night: Sarchu tent: Very windy and cold, thought it would fly off. Slept with thermals, jeans and jacket and gloves !
Acute Mountain Sickness of AMS can affect any one at any age and even if you did not have a problem on your previous trip: Essentially it is caused by low concentration of oxygen at higher altitudes. Most people can ‘get by’ upto 5000 –6000’. Higher than this, there is a positive risk. Slow incremental in heights 1000’ a day and coming down to lower altitudes is the only / best safe way of management.
However this is not possible on the Leh trip. You will end up spending a day at Search, which is at 14,000’. Leh itself is around 12,000’. Unless you get stuck for some reason at the top of the mountains, most halts can be planned at around 10-12000’. This can be comfortable.
The drug ‘Diamox’ has some prevention or more appropriately ‘compensatory’ value. Normal recommended dose is 125 -250 mg BD or twice a day (12 hourly). I was on 125 mg BD and it appeared to help me. Usually it is started about 2 days in advance and stopped once you reach the normal heights, after your trip. Since you could be rarely allergic to this drug, it is better to take a sample dose well before your trip rather than find out at some high altitude that you are allergic this drug ! This is what I did.
I could feel some difficulty on top of Tanglangla at 17,400’ and took me a good 2/3 hours before I could come down to 12,000’. If you are acclimatized at 12,000’ a one day climb upto 18,000’ and back will not affect you as long as at the end of the day you are down. Example Leh – Kardungla and back only 2 hours ride and 40 km away.
Kardungla eluded me on this trip. Despite my making time for getting the permit at the DC’s office in Leh. You need to be there at 9.30 am with a photo Id and a letter of request that you would like to go to Kardungla. A standard form given at the office needs to be filled up. You will need to get a Xerox copy of it and there is no copying machine at the DC’s office. Once this is done, you will receive your permit the same day by around 3.30 pm. In my case all 3 days the weather was bad. On the last day when I went up 15 km, I was advice not to go up. Since I was all packed I left Leh - Srinagar with a certain amount of disappointment. Perhaps there will be a next time ! Till then , I need to be happy with crossing ‘solo’ and II highest pass in the world.
Though I had digital and film, I found digital most comfortable. You will need to have a spare set to batteries which are charged and a charger along with an extra storage chip for your camera.
Being in South India, I am used seeing all mountains which are mostly solid rock, I was surprised to find that in Himalayas, much of it is soft rock and sand. This is one of the reason for much land slides after rains. Huge chunks of the mountain side seem to collapse after rains. The resultant sludge and water crossings can be fun and treacherous at times. Especially when it involves the hairpin bends.
I did fall in the mire and could not get up under the weight of the bike, and lack of traction on the ground. BRO persons, helped pull out the bike. One segment after Sonamarg around 13th –15sth Aug 2006 was closed for 3 days for repairs and everybody was stuck.. I managed to put the bike in an empty truck and make the crossing (20 kms) and then continue biking again to Srinagar.
In general on this trip I found that Leh – Srinagar was better than the Manali – Leh route. The latter is more challenging. Road surface and in comparison
Leh - Srinagar
· Less landslides.
· Only Zo jill pass at 14,000’
· Road surface: Scale of 1-10 (1 being the least) 6
· Gradual increase in height
· Sonamarg, a nice hill station
· Pass through Kargil
· More pictureous; greenery (Hindi film type)
· Close to Pak border !
Manali – Leh
· Road surface: Scale of 1-10 (1 being the least) 3.5
· 4 passes including Tanglangla
· Smaller towns on the way
· Rustic views
· More lonely stretches
· Valleys are gorgeous.
Some Snippets:
1. Only hard cash accepted in all places, credit cards rarely except few places in Manali.
2. Cell Phone: Only BSNL post-paid works. Airtel present but does not come under all India roaming, wonder why ?
3. Broadband Internet service Rs..2/- per minute at Leh
4. Noted, quite a few guys with rented RE bullets having problems.
5. No imported bikes seen
6. Jispa has a nice hotel at Rs.1500/- a day.
7. Noted plenty of foreigners on bikes smoking ganja
8. The petrol guy at Tandi can be dicey: Sometimes he says ‘no gas’, and gives it out at higher cost thru’ some agent. I did not have the problem but some others did.
9. 25 years of weather record of Leh shows an average of 1.7 days of rain in August. But this year more than 12 days ! Talk of stastisics.
10. Riding with UV visor on helmet very important. You can get I degree burns on your nose face and lips without it. Carry sun tan lotion. Sun rays very piercing at heights
11. My average speeds on the mountains was 20 to 25 kms per hour. 35 at some short segments
Ride Safe !
